Della Femina
East Hampton, NY 11937
Phone: (631) 329-6666
12/11/2007 Posted by serverofdeath
Original, inspired comfort food. Chef Michael Rozzi prepares food that makes me long for a return to the restaurant industry. His fluke tartare sets the tartare bar at new heights; ironically, for a fish that lies so low on the ocean floor. Hijiki (seaweed salad) and sublimely sliced "sashimi grade" fluke form the foundation of this culinary edifice which rises up to reach a perfectly portioned layer of wasabi tobiko(tiny fish roe infused with wasabi). Julienned local organic radish completes the texturally dynamic crescendo that takes the palate to the brink of climax, leaving it to want more. As we all know, chicken can be, and usually is, the most mundane choice on the menu. A "safety plate", like the state school I chose over Stanford. Della Femina forces us to rethink our preconceived notions about the most bastardized protein on Earth. Crispy and tender. Rich, yet light. Chicken, yet new. How Chef Rozzi achieves these paradoxical thruths is a mystery that need not be solved, but definitely experienced. What else can this man do? Take the snow form the cold? Take the heat form the flame? Can he...stop the music? Cheesy Village People reference aside, this is a restaurant for serious lovers of food. The staff are also serious lovers of food, and their knowledge and professionalism ride on the golden chariot of their personalities. Timing, attention to detail, and confident banter are innate to these servers who are at the top of their game. An ill word about them could only be uttered by unqualified ignoramuses (see other reviews) who do not posess a dining acumen commensurate with this establishment. Perhaps they should hone their skills at Applebee's for a while before they attempt a dining experience that should be reserved for those that know how to enjoy it. I think there's one in Riverhead.
Pros: food, service
Cons: undeserving patrons descend like locusts in the summertime
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